Fresh-picked apples line the loge at the entryway, and their wonderful scent lingers inside. Two vaulted rooms, one an elegant ivory, the other a warmer crimson, offer plush chairs, fresh flowers, and odd--though not necessarily loud--acoustics. The feel is less stuffy than many restaurants of this caliber, but the service is no less polished.

The Food
Chef David Bouley's strength lies in layering flavors yet always preserving the essence of a dish's centerpiece. Silky black bass with porcini mushrooms carries smoky, earthy and buttery overtones that somehow never overpower the fish, and whole-roasted baby pig includes belly meat, braised for 24 hours in five spice-ginger glaze, and yet the pork flavor is still fully present. A bright, colorful terrine of lobster, mango and artichoke wrapped in Serrano ham and drizzled with a passionfruit, coconut and tamarind dressing represents the chef at his best.