Buddha Bar
25 Little W 12th St
New York,
NY
10014
www.buddhabarnyc.com
The Scene
America brought Euro-Disney to the French, and now
they've returned the gesture with this enormous Asian-themed restaurant
and bar hailing from Paris. Beyond a circular tunnel lined with golden
statues lie three massive adjoining rooms, separated by columns of
rolled-up wooden mats and decked with red chandeliers, large teak
tables and dragons coiled around heating pipes. A towering Buddha beams
under a huge skylight. Meatpacking hotties and business-dinner parties
are part of the show, especially in the glassed-in smoking room.
The Food
The
pan-Asian cuisine fares better than expected for a factory-sized
restaurant. Starters of chicken samosas are flaky and addictive, but
thinly sliced scallops and sea bream saduchi suffer from overly similar
lemon sauces. And while a too-sweet sauce mires braised short ribs and
sliced rib-eye, both squeak by as high-end comfort food. Buttery
sablefish with crisp greens in a robust miso needs no such
qualifications. Desserts, including a curiously soapy iced-tea mousse,
make for an anticlimactic ending.