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Buddha Bar
25 Little W 12th St
New York, NY 10014
www.buddhabarnyc.com

The Scene
America brought Euro-Disney to the French, and now they've returned the gesture with this enormous Asian-themed restaurant and bar hailing from Paris. Beyond a circular tunnel lined with golden statues lie three massive adjoining rooms, separated by columns of rolled-up wooden mats and decked with red chandeliers, large teak tables and dragons coiled around heating pipes. A towering Buddha beams under a huge skylight. Meatpacking hotties and business-dinner parties are part of the show, especially in the glassed-in smoking room.

The Food
The pan-Asian cuisine fares better than expected for a factory-sized restaurant. Starters of chicken samosas are flaky and addictive, but thinly sliced scallops and sea bream saduchi suffer from overly similar lemon sauces. And while a too-sweet sauce mires braised short ribs and sliced rib-eye, both squeak by as high-end comfort food. Buttery sablefish with crisp greens in a robust miso needs no such qualifications. Desserts, including a curiously soapy iced-tea mousse, make for an anticlimactic ending.

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