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Gotham Bar and Grill
12 E 12th St
New York, NY 10003-4498
www.gothambarandgrill.com


The Scene
Though the lofty dining room of this fine-dining staple has recieved minor tweaks over the years, the general aesthetic remains the same. A base of Grecian grandeur--columns, marble railings and a garden view through tall windows in the back--gets layered with nods to the neighborhood's arty history, including the famous cloth pieces that hang from the ceiling like elegant pastry bags. The service is impeccable, and makes everyone from power-players to once-a-year splurgers feel equally important.

The Food
Alfred Portale's dinner menu is divided into three courses, anda melange of flavors is skillfully combined without overkill throughout. The creamy flavor of bay scallops withstand their avocado, coconut and watermelon radish accompaniment, and somehow king crab, Meyer lemon and butternut squash make natural dish-mates in a perfectly cooked risotto. If miso-marinated black cod lacks depth, the wonderfully simple ricotta cheesecake dotted with huckleberries proves that not every dish needs such intricacy.

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