Gotham Bar and Grill
12 E 12th St
New York, NY 10003-4498
www.gothambarandgrill.com
The Scene
Though the lofty dining room of this fine-dining
staple has recieved minor tweaks over the years, the general aesthetic
remains the same. A base of Grecian grandeur--columns, marble railings
and a garden view through tall windows in the back--gets layered with
nods to the neighborhood's arty history, including the famous cloth
pieces that hang from the ceiling like elegant pastry bags. The service
is impeccable, and makes everyone from power-players to once-a-year
splurgers feel equally important.
The Food
Alfred
Portale's dinner menu is divided into three courses, anda melange of
flavors is skillfully combined without overkill throughout. The creamy
flavor of bay scallops withstand their avocado, coconut and watermelon
radish accompaniment, and somehow king crab, Meyer lemon and butternut
squash make natural dish-mates in a perfectly cooked risotto. If
miso-marinated black cod lacks depth, the wonderfully simple ricotta
cheesecake dotted with huckleberries proves that not every dish needs
such intricacy.