A lively front bar boasts moneyed septuagenarians downing cocktails and socializing. Jacketed waiters buzz about the subdued circular dining room, topped with a lighted shade that's reminiscent of a circus tent; three-ring-themed plates and whimsical animal artwork expand on the theme.

The Food
Though the dishes may sound exotic, they are wisely aimed at a crowd for whom the very idea of experimentation is enough. The appetizer trio of English peas and mushrooms is at its best with the pea ravioli, in which the pea essence shines. The well-executed foie gras terrine gives off the expected silky smoothness with complements from sweet wine gelee and fig chutney. Mains take the simple route: A smallish steamed branzino gets sea flavor from its bouillabaisse sauce, while duck is unadorned, save for a crisped orange glaze. Desserts include the classic creme brulee served in the restaurant's signature dish (the recipe appears as you polish off the dessert).